Installation

Vertical Structures / Installation

	Make sure that the supporting structures are vertical and horizontal. Place two wooden strips horizontally on the surface where the wall will be built. The strips must follow the wall, and the distance between them must be equal to the thickness of the glass block u will be using. *Arrange the vertical guides, they must be plumb, and 100/120 cm apart to assure that the wall itself will be perfectly plumb. The wall must be perfectly vertical both lengthwise and upwards in order to avoid eccentric loads.
	Place a slip joint into the horizontal strips to prevent friction between the base of the panel and supporting surface. Place the expansion/setting joint on the side and at the panel support points.
	Use a trowel long enough to allow you to work easily between the vertical reinforcement bars. Apply cement mortar between the base strips, it must be at least 3 cm thick and proportionate to the height of the wall. Position the first row of Vetroarredo glass blocks.
	Build the first course perfectly plumb. Use the plastic spacers to make even joints. *Apply mortar to the vertical spaces between the glass blocks you have just laid, temporarily remove the spacers as you work and then replace them.
	Place the reinforcing rods on the central wing of the spacer to prevent contact with the glass block. Apply the mortar, leaving those parts of the spacers where the next glass block will be laid free so they don’t create any excess thickness. Make sure that each glass block is surrounded by well compacted and evenly distributed mortal on all sides to prevent with the bearing structures. Insert the reinforcement bars vertically and horizontally; the bars should not be more than 50 cm apart. Use a piece of wood to remove excess mortar from the joints before it hardens; this is in preparation for the finishing phase. Wipe the glass blocks with a wet sponge to remove any mortar residue. If the wall reaches to the ceiling, position the expansion/settling joint the same way you did on the sides.
	To guarantee stability for small and medium size walls, fasten them to the adjacent supporting structures with the horizontal reinforcement bars inserted in the structures them selves. The diameter of the holes should be slightly bigger than that of the bars over a length of 3-4 cm so the also pass through the expansion/settling joint. For large walls it is better to use U-sections, that are plugged or cramped to the adjacent supporting structures. To prevent the metal from touching the glass, position the first row of glass block at least 10 mm from the wings of the section. When using U-section, place the expansion/settling joint inside the section.
	Finish the joints only when the mortar is completely hardened. Remove the outer plates from the spacers using a tool that will not scratch the glass.
	Apply the grout, fill the joints well; use soft brushes and plastering trowels. Make a perimetral cordon, or part of the outside joint using elastic sealant to prevent cracking along the expansion/settling joints. *If the walls are to be exposed to much water, use a transparent paint along to enhance their impermeability.

	Make sure that the supporting structures are vertical and horizontal. Place two wooden strips horizontally on the surface where the wall will be built. The strips must follow the wall, and the distance between them must be equal to the thickness of the glass block u will be using. *Arrange the vertical guides, they must be plumb, and 100/120 cm apart to assure that the wall itself will be perfectly plumb. The wall must be perfectly vertical both lengthwise and upwards in order to avoid eccentric loads.
	Place a slip joint into the horizontal strips to prevent friction between the base of the panel and supporting surface. Place the expansion/setting joint on the side and at the panel support points.
	Use a trowel long enough to allow you to work easily between the vertical reinforcement bars. Apply cement mortar between the base strips, it must be at least 3 cm thick and proportionate to the height of the wall. Position the first row of Vetroarredo glass blocks.
	Build the first course perfectly plumb. Use the plastic spacers to make even joints. *Apply mortar to the vertical spaces between the glass blocks you have just laid, temporarily remove the spacers as you work and then replace them.
	Place the reinforcing rods on the central wing of the spacer to prevent contact with the glass block. Apply the mortar, leaving those parts of the spacers where the next glass block will be laid free so they don’t create any excess thickness. Make sure that each glass block is surrounded by well compacted and evenly distributed mortal on all sides to prevent with the bearing structures. Insert the reinforcement bars vertically and horizontally; the bars should not be more than 50 cm apart. Use a piece of wood to remove excess mortar from the joints before it hardens; this is in preparation for the finishing phase. Wipe the glass blocks with a wet sponge to remove any mortar residue. If the wall reaches to the ceiling, position the expansion/settling joint the same way you did on the sides.
	To guarantee stability for small and medium size walls, fasten them to the adjacent supporting structures with the horizontal reinforcement bars inserted in the structures them selves. The diameter of the holes should be slightly bigger than that of the bars over a length of 3-4 cm so the also pass through the expansion/settling joint. For large walls it is better to use U-sections, that are plugged or cramped to the adjacent supporting structures. To prevent the metal from touching the glass, position the first row of glass block at least 10 mm from the wings of the section. When using U-section, place the expansion/settling joint inside the section.
	Finish the joints only when the mortar is completely hardened. Remove the outer plates from the spacers using a tool that will not scratch the glass.
	Apply the grout, fill the joints well; use soft brushes and plastering trowels. Make a perimetral cordon, or part of the outside joint using elastic sealant to prevent cracking along the expansion/settling joints. *If the walls are to be exposed to much water, use a transparent paint along to enhance their impermeability.